How they work...

My S came with the "Comfort" handlebar set up.Bars above the top tripleclamp.

I never really wanted to admit I had a problem with the R1100S on day rides once I modified the OEM saddle and installed a peg lowering kit.
But it became painfully evident that the handlebars where about an inch or so too far forward for my reach.
My 50-something body felt numerous pressure points after 100 miles or more. It made more than 2 hours in the saddle just too much effort.

Joy lost.

" I just need a little farther back..."
I needed an answer, somehow, and I didn't feel like gambling high dollars for products out there that didn't appear to bring the bars rearward, with maybe the exception of those really really nice and really expensive machined tripleclamps that allow you to use tubular bars.
That set-up was too radical for my budget and seemed to take away from the R1100S design. Not enough information was available about installation either.
I researched the K-bike bars setup and couldn't find the right info. Then there was brand "V" kit, again, way too much dinero for my taste.

Check the wrist angle in these pics, OEM 'comfort' bars. I'm 5'11", 32" inseam and even with my long monkey arms...

Ouch!














 
What's the diff?
This simple design gave me resolve, and better ergos...Coupled with a flatter saddle and a Suburban Machinery peg lowering kit (if needed), pressure will come off your wrists, neck, and back, Your hips will roll back into a more normal sitting position. It's all about how you're body fits to the bike, we're all different in stature and style.
That said, these barbacks aren't for all S riders. But over 1000 S owners have bought them and love them.

It's a turn-key item for those bikes that came with the high (comfort) bars and all ABS equipped models. No cables, wires, or hoses need to be replaced. They set the bars +/- 1.5" back and about +/- .75" higher from the high or 'Comfort' handlebars position. And a lot more fro the low or 'Sport' handlebar position.
They are adjustable concentrically like the OEM bars but additionally on a second parallel axis, and as a result, also adjustable for some width.
An allen wrench (look in your toolkit) and maybe a pair of wire cutters is all you'll need.
Metric stainless steel cap screws (18-8 SS Socket Head Cap Screw, M6 Thread, 16MM Length, 1MM Pitch) and installation instructions are included.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Note: OEM low "sport bar" bikes like the Boxer Cup Replika, Prep, and pre 2001 bikes without ABS will need a longer brake hose at the handlebar master cylinder Hoses are available through Spiegler and Galfer.
The Low-bar Installation tips were written by the guys that pioneered the install, so read up:

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Low Bar Installation
As  mentioned, when installing the Barbacks on "low bar"bikes that did not come with ABS, require a longer brake hose.

All the info on this website has been gathered from those who have installed RD Barbacks on their bikes.

Props to those riders that helped create this.

Read about the development at the         Pelican Parts R1100S Tech Forum.

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(The install is the same for high,"comfort" bar bikes except those handlebars are already above the top tripleclamp.

High/comfort bar bikes do not require a longer brake hose. Installation instructions are included in each set).

 

According to the elders, in order to remove the low bars, do the following:

"1. Remove the anti-rotation screw for each bar (under the triple clamp, toward the center). If I remember correctly, they're hex.
2. Loosen the pinch bolts on the bar and the triple clamp. Remove/replace one side at a time.
3. Raise the slider above the triple clamp. There's a wire circlip at the top of the slider - remove and retain.
4. Push the slider down through the triple clamp and the bar. Remove the bar (use a towel to protect the tank/fairing, and just lay the bar on it).
5. Push slider up through the triple clamp (may need to be moved back into alignment, but not much). Make sure there's enough slider over the triple clamp to accept Rapid's bar backs (or the original bars).Snug the triple clamp pinch bolt, but don't tighten fully.
6. Repeat for other side.
You can now move the current bars into position to check for slack. If you can finish the install w/o any add/l mods:
 7. Install bar back. Don't tighten the pinch bolts.
8. Loosen triple clamp pinch bolt, and push slider up until the circlip notch is above the bar back.
9. Reinstall the circlip, and push the slider down until it stops. The circlips prevent the sliders from sliding out of the clamps (that's why you removed them in step 3). Bottom of bar back should be against top of triple clamp.
(Note: The circlips are noted here as keeping the sliders from moving down, out of the clamps before setting the sliders in place and tightening the tripleclamp. The circlips will need to be removed again when installing the barbacks.- RD)
10. Tighten all pinch bolts to spec.
11. Repeat for other side.
12. Install bars on bar backs.
Don't try to do both sides at once; the triple clamp starts moving around, and both sliders develop minds of their own. You'll need 3 hands to realign everything.
Don't ask me how I know this.
Hope this helps. The whole operation took me 20 minutes - including time to find the darn rotation screws - and I'm a klutz..."
Joe C.
Chicago, Ill.

Updater 05/04/06
I've done an inquiry at the Pelicanparts R1100S Tech Forumand there is alot of good feedback there now.
Here's the direct link to the discussion: Barback Longer Hose Inquisition ...
Also, Here is a quote from one of our members about the throttle cable. it appears that replacement is not required:
"There is no need to add a new throttle cable if you tuck the cable behind the ignition key cylinder. Secure it loosely with a zip tie. If it is allowed to remain in it's normal position it will cause the bike to race.
This is one area that was a little unclear when I did my research.
I was relieved to know the cable didn't need replacing."
Gary

 

Advice on the sliders:

"For low bar bikes, you also have to get the front wheel off the ground or the slider will try to tilt on you, according to a good BMW tech I talked to. He said with the wheel up, it would be a very simple operation.Another tip, tell your customers to check their brake and clutch levels before installing. If fluids are low when they set the handlebar controls on a towel on the plastic, air may get into the system. It did on my clutch. Hope this may help your customers."

Tony S.Howe, Texas

And more on the brake hose for non-ABS low bar bikes:
It's been brought to my attention that one or both of these part #s refer to low bar bikes going from below to above the bars only...these hoses are evidently only 1.5" longer the stock. This does not refer to using RD barbacks. Going from low bars to above plus adding RD barbacks will need a hose 3-4" longer, 4" being on the long side.
I suggest measuring for a longer hose and ordering thru another source such as Spiegler USA...this is a good time to got to steel brake lines anyway...

RD

Information from Suburban Machinery for their R11S Handlebar Riser Kit:

On non ABS models a longer brake hose is required.
For Brembo calipers (99 thru Jan 2001) use BMW part # 34-32-2-331-915
For BMW EVO calipers (Feb 2001 thru today) use BMW part # 34-32-7-651-553"
Mike

Info: 06/16/06 - (this is an original 1999 lowbar S)
"Hi Randy,
I took some pics during the installation. Feel free to use them on your site if you want to.
Thanks again,"
Chris Harris
Affordable Beemer Services LLC
 
Info: 09/22/06 - Raising the fork tubes and the bike's geometry
Many have asked the question, so I asked it on the Pelican Parts R1100S Tech Forum.
 
Many riders ask about the 'anti-rotation' screws and what to do with them. I always suggest doing something useful...

Alec Buggs of New Zealand writes:
"Hi Randy,
Bar backs arrived 3 weeks after dispatch from your end. No major problems with the fitting, although I did remove both side panels in order to get at the plastic ties securing the wiring. Also removed the throttle cable from the twist grip in order to re route it behind the ignition switch. As my bars are those that were originally under the triple clamp they had the anti rotation screw fitted.
Obviously moving them to the top meant having to do away with this, so I fitted a small piece of flat bar between the bars for 1) aesthetic reasons, but 2) mainly for safety reasons. In the future I intend replacing the flat bar with something more pleasing to the eye, but for right now it will do.
After fitting the bars I went for a 120 mile ride and I must say that it made a huge difference – no more sore wrists after 50 miles!! I am going to try and do some more mileage soon, but with our winter setting in I may have to delay it for a while.
I had intended selling bike due to the comfort issue, but now not for sale!!!"
 
A note on longer brake lines and torque from Hal H. in Pueblo, CO
"I ordered the 2 brake-line set from Spiegler 3-1/2 inches longer than stock and the fit perfectly. Also, on some of the BMWs the right front brake caliper has a fitting with a grub screw in it instead of a brake bleeder screw. I didn't notice this until I started to put the new line on. So, the project stopped until I got the bleeder. I bought it a local auto parts store. It is a M 10 -1.5.

The torque specified for the 6 mm clamping screws on the bar backs (25 n-m) is WAAAY to much for the screws. That torque is for the larger screws on the handle bar clamps. No wonder the instructions with the bar backs said to be careful with the torque wrench! The correct torque is 8 n-m. I torqued mine to 9 n-m and have had no problem with them slipping.
Thanks again for the great product.
Best regards,"
Hal